Charcoal-grilled freshwater eel, glazed and tender.
What it is
Unagi is freshwater eel, steamed then charcoal-grilled and lacquered with a sweet-savoury tare. Tokyo (Edomae) style steams the eel first for a melting softness. Served as unaju (over rice in a lacquer box) or unadon.
What it means
Eel is summer-stamina food, traditionally eaten on Doyo no Ushi day to beat the heat. Old eel houses guard tare passed down for generations — a literal taste of continuity.
Why it's wonderful
The contrast is sublime: crisp, smoky skin and cloud-soft flesh, the caramelised glaze soaking into warm rice. It's rich but refined — a special-occasion classic.
★ Unaju — Edomae eel steamed then charcoal-grilled
A Michelin-starred eel house with over 200 years of history, where the fifth-generation master steams and charcoal-grills Edomae unagi to melt-in-the-mouth perfection.
★ 'Eel' sushi and namasu crafted entirely from tofu and burdock
A reservation-only tatami refuge where a chef who trained 25 years at Takayama's Kakusho turns the seasons into meat-free trompe-l'oeil — tofu that tastes like eel, burdock that becomes sushi.
