A legendary fish izakaya tucked beneath the Yurakucho railway arches since 1946, run by Brit-owner Andy who hand-picks the catch at Toyosu Market each dawn.
A reservation-only Ginza counter where an entirely gluten-free kushiage omakase is fried in rice oil with rice-flour breadcrumbs — a rare safe haven for coeliacs.
The towering wooden-beamed izakaya that inspired Kill Bill's House of Blue Leaves, where lantern light conjures an Edo-era warehouse over plates of fresh soba and charcoal skewers.